Dim Sum – a personal fetish

This is a burst, an impression, an essence, a flavour of 2 hours gazing across Hyde Park with steaming baskets of Dim-Sum. Zeren Wilson indulges a growing obsession with Dim Sum, and finds Premier League quality.

Min Jiang, blisteringly good views over Hyde Park, at the top of the Royal Garden Hotel, High Street Kensington.

Pitch perfect dim sum, charming, service, hits every dim sum fetish you may have. Plump, sweet, Prawn Har Gau - as good as they get, the useful addition of bamboo shoot giving it the edge.

Siew Long Bao, the Beijing dumpling with a riot of addictive ginger laden juice, is beautifully judged. Steamed Char Siu Bun doesn't have the unctuous dark mystery of those at Yauatcha, and is ok, verging towards a cotton wool vibe in the mouth, which is always the risk with this dish.

Steamed crab meat dumpling, on the tame side of judicious seasoning but with decent crabby goodness.

Chinese Chive dumpling, classic prawn and chive combo, ok but better at Royal China Club.

Surprisingly informal, after negotiating the building site in the main entrance, you can dine alone and be attended by smiling, helpful staff.

The short dim sum list breeds confidence in the kitchen, and speaks of a dedicated dim sum chef - the dim sum here stands alongside Royal China Club and the rest of the Royal China group, and while not having the whizz bang of Yauatcha & Hakkasan, you're more likely to want to come here more often, when the mood takes you – impulse dim sum, quick hit, job done.

High Mountain Dong Ding tea, has the captivating yet subtle Jasmine scent, with a creamy note. Think posh Jasmine. Or 1er Cru Jasmine, in Burgundy parlance. Negotiating the subtleties of Chinese tea, is like understanding the differences between adjacent Burgundy vineyards - complex, subtle, beguiling.

Delectable duck, a speciality, was carved beside me, and smelt wondrous. Served in two, staggered servings. Next time.

Dessert? No, two Siew Mai. Chicken and rice was so so, more rice, non-existent chicken, but by the third one I'm persuaded their savoury goodness is worthy. Pork & prawn is textbook, juicy, with yielding sweet filling, slightly oversalted but great.

One of the best spots in London for quality dim-sum, the view topping it off and winning me over.

Come here and do some Dong Ding - you won't be disappointed.

The Restauraphile here was Zeren Wilson

• Min Jiang
• The Royal Garden Hotel
• 2-24 Kensington High Street
• London W8 4PT
• 0207 361
1988 www.minjiang.co.uk

£35.50 for 7 assorted plates of dim sum, 1 Chinese Tea, service not included.